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Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual

Michael Pollan

By Jesse Kornbluth
Published: Jan 07, 2010
Category: Food and Wine

If you got in on the ground floor, you chewed every page of The Omnivore’s Dilemma, (464 pages, $8.00 at Amazon).

If you were a second responder, the first Michael Pollan book you read was In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto, (256 pages, $7.50 at Amazon), which boils theory and anecdote down to a tasty, healthy feeding strategy.
 
If you’re new here or haven’t paid attention — or love Pollan’s work and want to spread the gospel — here’s Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual (137 pages, $11 retail, $5.50 at Amazon), a skinny paperback that says pretty much everything you’d find in his longer books.
 
Or you can consider Pollan’s reduction of his message to seven words — "Eat food, not too much, mostly plants" — and read nothing more because you know how to crack that koan and adopt a way of eating that just might save your life.
 
Why, you may wonder, does a clearly written 256-page book need to be boiled down to 64 general principles?
 
Two reasons.
 
Those of us who read about food have, in the last few years, been swamped by the language of nutrition. Antioxidants. Polyphenols. Probiotics. Omega-3 fatty acids. But you can know all about this stuff and still not be able to answer the basic question: Yeah, but what should I eat?
 
Then there are those who have never heard Pollan’s message. They’re the folks on the coach, eating pre-packaged snack food, sucking down sodas, serving vegetables as an afterthought. In short, people who are devotees of the Western diet — which is, says Pollan, “the one diet that reliably makes its people sick!”
 
Pollan wants to help both groups — and break the cycle of self-created disease.
 
And the quickest way to do that is through lessons so simple even the guy chowing down a Hungry Man (“It’s good to feel full”) meal can understand.
 
“Food Rules” may be short, but it’s elegantly organized. Part I addresses the question: What should I eat? (Answer: food.) Part II asks: What kind of food should I eat? (Answer: mostly plants.) And Part II considers: How should I eat? (Answer: Not too much.)
 
These are un-American answers. Advertising trains us to shop in the center aisles of supermarkets. We’ve been brainwashed to believe that fast food is food. Because we’re so busy, we’re encouraged not to cook for ourselves. And that way of living works for us — right up to the moment we’re overweight and diabetic.
 
But if we break the cycle?
 
“People who get off the western diet,” says Pollan, “see dramatic improvements in their health.”
 
What does Pollan tell you in these pages? Here’s a sample:
 
— “Don’t eat anything your great grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food.”
— “Don’t eat anything with more than five ingredients, or ingredients you can’t pronounce.”
—- “Don’t eat anything that won’t eventually rot…There are exceptions — honey — but as a rule, things like Twinkies that never go bad aren’t food.”
— “Always leave the table a little hungry.’"
— “Eat meals together, at regular meal times.”
— “Don’t buy food where you buy your gasoline. In the U.S., 20% of food is eaten in the car.”
— “Don’t eat breakfast cereals that change the color of the milk.”
 
Pollan would have you only eat junk food you cook yourself. He’d like you to buy your snacks at a farmer’s market. He’d like you to use meat as a flavor enhancer, a condiment, an afterthought. And he’d like to see you hurt the bottom line of pre-packaged food companies by paying a little more for real food that’s worth eating.
 
I can imagine a great many of of you nodding in agreement. And feeling superior. And still buying several copies — to send, anonymously, to loved ones who are eating themselves to death. I can think of no better gift.
 
To buy “Food Rules” from Amazon.com, click here.
 

To buy the Kindle edition of “Food Rules” from Amazon.com, click here.
 
To read about Nina Planck’s “Real Food: What to Eat and Why”, click here.

To visit Michael Pollan’s web site, click here.