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SOS Chefs

By Jesse Kornbluth
Published: Feb 02, 2016
Category: Food and Wine

It’s hard to tell the difference between the shopping streets of Manhattan, Greenwich, Palm Beach, Paris, you-name-it — the same stores are everywhere.

The one-of-a-kind shops, the small boutiques? The FOR RENT signs tell you where they used to be.

So when I walked into SOS Chefs, I wanted to weep for joy.

The store doesn’t bother with merchandising sizzle. It’s old school, functional, serious. The walls are lined with shelves, the shelves are laden with products. the floor is concrete. And the proprietors — Atef Boulaabi and her husband, Adam Berkowitz — don’t jump up to schmooze you. But when Atef, who’s from Tunisia, sets her work aside to help you, you are transported to Foodie Heaven.

Atef and Adam started SOS Chefs in 1996 to provide top-quality spices, oils, grains and more to professional chefs. They added civilians a few years later. They don’t advertise — I heard about SOS Chefs from a friend — and the shop is well off the beaten path: 104 Avenue B (between E. Sixth and Seventh streets; Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm; Sat, 9am-5pm; Sun, closed.) Most orders are phoned in (212-505-5813) or ordered from the web site.

SOS stands for “Save Our Spices,” but spices are just the beginning of the shop’s offerings. If you want the exotic, it’s all here: argan oil, almond syrup, white cardamom, dried mushrooms, truffles, heirloom beans, manuka honey, distillations of 50 flowers and spices. But that’s just for a few of you. If you’re like me — a home cook who likes to dazzle friends and family — some basics are more to the point.

ORDERING FROM SOS: Below I link to individual products. Or you could go to the site’s welcome screen and search. What about Amazon? Not happening. But I do have the same business relationship with SOS that I have with Amazon; SOS pays commission on orders that start here. For that to happen, there’s something you must do. When you’re checking out — on the screen that asks for your address and billing information — look a little lower. You’ll see a box that says Order Notes. In that box, type “Head Butler.” If you’re ordering by phone? Just mention Butler, and SOS will record the sale. And if you visit the store? Tip your fedora and whisper, “Head Butler sent me.” Many thanks.

WARNING: Do not go to this site if you only have a minute. Do not visit the store if you don’t have 30 minutes.

And now…what I bought or plan to:

Tellicherry Peppercorns
Atef: “Black pepper for a man is better than Viagra. It keeps the body hot inside and allows everything to work properly.”

Honey Vinegar
Sharp. Tart. And then…not.

Dried Angelino Plums (Turkey)
1 pound, $10

Porcini Powder
for soups and meats

Jasmine Water and Rose Water
I bought these as a birthday present for a friend who loves hydrosols, which are the aromatic water that remains after steam-distilling or hydro-distilling botanical material. (At SOS, the distillery is suspended from ceiling.) My friend likes to spray a room and then inhale; she says the rose water and lavender waters, in particular, give her a small burst of optimism. (SOS sells 8 oz for $20. It also sells smaller bottles with spray tops for more money. I made what I think is the smarter choice: I bought the 8 oz. bottle — and, at Target, I bought small plastic spray bottles for $1.99.)

Dukkah
A sweet & savory spice, a mix of cumin, coriander, crushed hazelnut, walnut flour, toasted white sesame, rose petal and more. Use as a chicken rub, sprinkle it on warm bread that’s been dipped in olive or as a topping for popcorn. 4 ounces @ $15.

SOS Tea Blend
A blend of cactus flower, sena, carcade, wild cumin, saffron, hibiscus, verbena, mint, jujube, and mimosa

And, for gifts or splurges….

Lavender Honey Drops
“Soothing” understates.

Lapsang Souchong Tea
From Fujian China, this black tea is smoked with pine over open fires.

Fleur de Sel
sea salt from the Ile de Ré

Persian Saffron

What did I tell you? Like no other store in the city. Don’t leave town without making a pilgrimage.

[4-star thanks to Tom Stewart]