Books

Go to the archives

Williams-Sonoma Paris

 by Marlene Spieler

By Jesse Kornbluth
Published: Jan 01, 2006
Category: Food and Wine

 

 

 

Williams-Sonoma Paris

Marlene Spieler

Count on Williams-Sonoma to take a subject as rich as Parisian cooking, the food shops of Paris, its great restaurants and the general atmosphere of the world’s most romantic city and break it down to a simple, reader-friendly book — 70 pages of text, recommendations and photographs, followed by just 45 recipes.

Marlene Spieler’s tour of Paris makes you want to go. (Well, first it makes you want to win the lottery — while she suggests a lot of reasonably-priced restaurants and cafes, she doesn’t spare you the upscale classics.) She’s been there, done that, made the journal entry; she’s authoritative.
 
The recipes, though few in number, cover a wide range. They’re basics, and simple, but not converted to a series of short-cuts and time-saving strategies. You want to cook like a Parisian, you’re going to commit a bit of time. And then, of course, you’re going to get a result that makes the effort well worth it.
 
Here’s a sample recipe. The French, we learn from the notes, often add a pig’s or calf’s foot to the pot, then remove it before serving. There’s no need for you to go that far. But you will very much want to serve this stew with celery root puree (the book offers a simple recipe), a warm baguette and a salad with a platter of cheeses.
 
Ms. Spieler suggests a hearty Burgundy like Chambertin or Vosne-Romanee. Sounds great. But after you get over sticker shock at your wine store, a Medoc like Cahors — strong, reliable and, not least, affordable — will do just fine.
 
One note: You need to start this the day before serving.
 
Boeuf en Daube (Beef Stewed in Red Wine)
 
3 lbs. boneless beef chuck, trimmed of fat, cut into 2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons cognac or brandy
2 whole cloves
2 yellow onions, coarsely chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and sliced
1 celery stick, sliced
8 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 or 5 fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
1-2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
2 large strips orange zest
1 bottle dry red wine
2 tablespoons dried cepe mushrooms
3 slices cured, unsmoked bacon (panchetta)
salt and pepper
4 cups beef stock
3 tablespoons tomato juice
 
1. In a large, nonreactive bowl, combine beef, cognac, cloves, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, bay leaf, sage, parsley, thyme, a little ground pepper, orange zest, mushrooms and wine. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
 
2. Bring beef and vegetables to room temperature. Transfer meat to a platter, pat it dry. Reserve the marinade. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
 
3. On top of the stove, in a large, ovenproof pot, fry the bacon. Using a slotted spoon, remove it to a plate covered with a paper towel. In batches, brown the meat and vegetables in the bacon fat, allowing 6-7 minutes per batch. Transfer to a platter.
 
4. Add the marinade to the pot, bring to a boil. Then reduce heat to medium and reduce the liquid by one-third (about 8 minutes). Add the stock and simmer again until liquid is reduced by a third (another 8 minutes).
 
5. Return the meat, vegetables and bacon to the pot. Cover and cook in oven until meat is tender (at least 2 and 1/2 hours).
 
6. Using a slotted spoon, remove meat and vegetables to a plate. Spoon off any fat from the liquid. Set the pot over high heat and cook, stirring, until the liquid is reduced by half (about 10 minutes). Return the meat and vegetables to the pot, add the tomato juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to individual bowls and serve at once.
 
— by Jesse Kornbluth, for HeradButler.com
 
To buy "Williams-Sonoma Paris" from Amazon.com, click here.